Vast Open Plain Is Their Home

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 ◆ Vast Open Plain Is Their Home

Except for a few settled farmers, most of the Kazak ethnic people in the Yili Kazak Autonomous Prefecture, the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, make a living with animal husbandry, migrating to look for pastures as the seasons change. The picture of Kazak families carrying the old and the young, dragging yurts, driving carts and livestock and traveling on the vast open plains in the south of Altay Mountain is a spectacular one. Recently, I got a chance to follow a Kazak family as it migrated and had an unforgettable experience of living the drifting life of the Kazak people. The family I followed was formed by nine people from three generations. The old master of the family was 85-year-old Halie and the youngest was two-year-old Aldi. Halie's wife had passed away. On this trip, they brought more than 400 sheep and 80 cows and used 12 camels to carry the family's meager necessities. According to Halie, moving has been a tradition and a way of life for the Kazak herdsmen for innumerable years. They spend most of their time in motion. "We usually move 20 to 30 times each year, covering distances of 500 to 800 kilometers," he said. The timing of each move depends mainly on weather conditions and the condition of the pastureland. Usually, the family stays on the winter pasture from November 11 to March 10 and on summer pasture from May 25 to September 10. With more and more herdsmen beginning to buy permanent homes, young Kazak men have taken the responsibility of looking for winter pastures while other family members stay in the house. Before moving, the herdsmen have to do a lot of preparation. First, each of the sheep must receive a medicine bath to avoid infection. Each family drives its sheep to a medicine pool and the sheep take turns having a bath. Every day, several thousand sheep take a dip in the pool. It was no easy job for women participating in the move either. This time, two of Halie's daughters-in-law were among the travelers. They were the earliest to get up in the morning everyday and prepared breakfast for the family. Then they helped their husbands to pack up things for each day's travels. Since the move would last for quite a long time, they brought heavy luggage which included almost everything necessary for daily life. On the road, the two women had no time to relax. While taking care of their children, they were also responsible for leading the camels. "Baosark," a kind of deep-fried wheaten food, milk tea, cheese and milk made up the typical travel menu. "Baosark" is a beloved traditional food for Kazak people because it is easy to make, carry about and store. Before moving, every family makes bags of "Baosark" (each bag holds about 20 kilograms) to bring with them on the journey. Halie's second son brought two bags and his youngest son one bag. Milk tea was a necessity for every meal. But the Kazak people's milk tea is different from the tea slurped by other nomadic ethnic people. The Kazaks boil the milk and tea separately. Before drinking, they put milk in the cup and then pour tea into it. They also often add butter, sugar or salt. Though most Kazaks move in family units, herdsmen are always ready to offer help and support to others in need during the move, regardless of familial affiliation. True and sincere from the bottom of their hearts, they give their generous help without ever asking for repayment. A folk song that all Kazaks can sing reflects this generous spirit: "Never praise your livestock; What can you do when snowstorms come? Never say how strong and brave you are; One man can never put up a yurt. Never say you make a long and difficult journey; Moving to a new place is the result of supporting one another."